Land of Hope and Glory - A Brief Culinary Experience from BritainAs I noted in my last column, some have said the "Britain conquered the world in search of a good meal". Although it is true that the British imported and refined the tastes of the Empire, and we all like a good curry or kebab, nothing beats the traditional fare. It may be the reason Brits have one of the highest rates of heart disease in the world, but in moderation it is a true pleasure (if you have acquired the taste).
So, we start this journey in Shrewsbury, Shropshire, birthplace of Charles Darwin. My cousin Nita operates a well-stocked deli, Appleyards in town centre, which carries a wide variety of British cheeses and English bacons made by her husband, who also has a shop in Shrewbury Market. If you're in the area, drop into either establishment and tell them Phil sent you.
Appleyard's on Wyle Copp in Shrewsbury.
My cousin Nita and her daughter Sarah, behind a counter of British cheese and Continental fare.
So, we go on to Chester, Chesire, namesake of Chester, Nova Scotia of course. This walled city with many Roman remains, is well worth the stop. The Bear and Billet Pub, on Bridge Street, located in what was the last timber framed building constructed in Chester, built in 1664, is home of the best fish and chips in the world, or at least I was told that when I asked the server, "how are your fish and chips?". "Best in the world, luv", was the reply.
The menu describes them as: COD COOKED IN A LIGHT CRISPY BEER BATTER, REAL CHIPS, MUSHY PEAS AND TARTARE SAUCE. Real chips, not to be confused with french fries, freedom fries or pomme frites, are chunky pieces of hand cut potato, traditionally cooked in beef dripping, but now more commonly cooked in oil.
We start the meal with three beverages again, one to cook with, one to drink while cooking and one to have with the meal.

I had some Keith's, the local provincial standard, left over in the fridge, so we will use that to cook with. I don't like it but keep in on hand to satisfy the locals who enjoy gassy and flavourless ale, or American friends who think it is a whole lot better than the stuff they call beer.
The other 2 are made by Propeller in Halifax, and are more like the traditional ale you would be served in an English pub than are the UK beers sold in the NSLC, most of which no one drinks in England. Both are hoppy and flavourful. The IPA has a particularly strong hop flavour and aroma.
A little note on British beer glasses. Pictured below, the one on the left is the standard English Pint Glass and the one on the right is a dimple glass, more common in Northern England and Scotland where it is used as a weapon as well as a drinking vessel. In these parts, the word glass can be both a noun or a verb. To glass somone, is to plunge a beer glass or bottle into their face, usually if they support a rival football team or make eye contact with your date.

First step of cooking the fish and chips is to buy fish. On fridays, here in Chester, NS, The Fish Store brings their mobile shop into town and sells fresh haddock, salmon as well as shellfish, smoked fish, and salt cod. I find their haddock particularly fresh and of good quality, so I used this instead of cod. The local Save Easy also has good haddock and cod on hand most of the time.
Next step is to peel a few potatoes and cut them into finger size pieces. Soak the potato pieces in cold water for about an hour before cooking.
The batter is made with 6 ounzes of white flour, a teaspoon of baking soda, salt and pepper, 8 ounzes of beer and the juice of a quarter lemon. Whisk the flour, soda and beer together and set aside. Just before you are about to cook the fish, squeeze the lemon juice in the batter and mix. The acid in the lemon juice activates the soda and lightens the batter.
In a medium size pot, heat a half litre or so of sunflower oil and add the potatoes. Be careful to drain them well and pat them with paper towel so that the oil doesn't splatter. Cook for a few minutes while you prepare the fish.
The fish needs to be dredged in flour to make the batter stick. This little known secret is what stops the batter from all fallling off when the fish is cooked. So, put a few ounzes of flour on a plate and coat the fish, pushing the flour into the surface.
After a few minutes of cooking, remove the potatoes with a slotted spoon and set aside.
Using tongs, coat the fish in the batter and drop in the oil. Cook each side until golden brown.
Remove the fish and set aside. Put the potatoes back in and cook until golden.
Serve with malt vinegar and peas on the side. Regular peas are often substituted for mushy peas. Mushy pea ingredients are not available in Chester, NS so I went with frozen peas.

So, there it is, the real deal - fish supper as it is called in some parts.
A couple more pictures from England, a traditional butcher's shop in Ludlow, Shropshire below,

And a pasty shop in the historic city of York, where you can warm up with a cup of tea and a warm sausage roll to dip in brown sauce, mmmm!

I leave you in the old city of York, because next week, we are going to New York - way downtown, Lower Manhattan to Little Italy.
Till then, cheers...
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